V9186 – Vogue Pattern Review
I am a bit partial to a quirky dress shape found myself attracted to this A- symmetrical pattern from Vogue by the Designer Kathryn Brenne
Call me unimaginative but I also really liked the black and white gingham as used on the pattern picture especially as a cotton fabric is what is needed for the hot Australian summer. Hence I selected a micro Gingham to use.
I knew immediately that I wanted to spruce it up a bit with a touch of colour and selected some red buttons and bias trim to contrast with the dress.
Initial Pattern Changes
Size –wise, taking in to account the bust and hip measurements as stated on the pattern envelope , it was dictating that I went with the medium. However, given that I have small shoulders and as the garment is non – fitted. I opted for the small size. This was a wise move as the small fitted my proportions perfectly.
The first change I made was to the fly front. I wanted my buttons visible and so I cut two left front bands (pattern piece 3) and omitted right fly – front (pattern piece 4).
I am vertically challenged and so shortened the pattern by 2.5cm just below the armhole. I chose to shorten here, rather than lower down so as not to interfere with the pocket positioning on the A – symmetric pattern.
Making Up
The pattern comes together very nicely as so often Vogue patterns do.
The instructions are thorough and very well explained.
I decided to bring in the red bias trim to neaten the pockets, sleeve edges and hem. I also topstitched the back neck darts in red top stitching thread to make a feature.
A tricky edge to finish was the armhole – where it meets the side seam as it’s a quite a severe, hooked shape. Next time I would bind the armhole first. Then sew up the side seam afterwards. I would overlock the side seam and hand stitch the underarm edge at the top so the overlocking will not unravel and it won’t show.
The casing for the elastic was also a little tricky to position once the side seams were stitched. Next time, if I wanted to include the elastic I would leave the left side seam open until after I had sewn the casing in place on the flat. (the casing does not go across left side seam so it is not an issue).
End Result
Positives: I like quite a bit about the garment. Its quirky and a little bit different! I really love the cap sleeve shape and the darts at the back neck. The collar also sits very nicely.
Negatives: I hate to admit it but I dislike the elastic feature!!! It is jut a bit too bulky and a bit too home dress-maker for my liking…. It’s a shame as this is one of the features that attracted me to the pattern in the first place. Also – constructing a wide elastic curve isn’t necessarily a good idea.I do think this feature will look great on a taller model however!
I have decided to wear it loose and tent like which isn’t the most flattering for a small person and have lopped a few cms off the bottom of the lower side as on me – it was just hanging too low.
